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The Shape of Gowns to Come

by Connie Walker
Aleya Bridal Designs

Article, pictures, and gown designs are the copyright of Aleya Bridal Designs, 1997

Many brides have a vision of the perfect bridal gown, an ideal of what they want before they try it on. Other brides haven't given their gown much thought, waiting instead to look through the racks, hoping to find one that suits their fancy. Either way is fine of course, and whether a bride is on a quest or a search, she should remember one element as she looks at all the gowns available.

 Beyond the trim, beyond the lace, beyond the designer label, you have the shape of the gown, often referred to as a silhouette. Before the shape of the gown, you have the shape of your own body. One shape (the gown) frames the other (your body). Some shapes flatter. Others don't. Some shapes feature things you don't mind featuring, while others, well, feature things you'd rather not have featured at all. So, the trick in shopping for a wedding gown is knowing: 1) your body shape; 2) the shape of your gown; 3) how it works on your body; and 4) what, if anything, can be done with that shape to make it look best on you.

 Below are some of the more popular silhouettes and waistlines used in bridal gowns. Next to each is a description of how it affects a figure. Keep in mind, of course, that with all generalities there are always exceptions. Use this as a guide, and if something happens to break the rule, and you look terrific, then, as always, go with what looks and feels best.

Ballgown

Ballgown Silhouette (left). These look great on average-height to tall brides. Petite brides should be careful: a ballgown with too full a skirt could overwhelm her appearance.

Princess

The Princess Line/A-line Silhouette (right) (it goes by either name) flatters a wide range of figures. It can make shorter brides appear taller, while at the same time it can help to hide a bride's larger hips because of the way the fabric flares over the hips, not hugging them. Because of its hourglass lines, this silhouette can add feminine curves to a straight figure and de-emphasize thicker waists. The Princess/A-line provides graceful lines to a fuller figure, and it allows a bride to have a full skirt without bulk at the hips.

Sheath

Sheath (left). The sheath works best on thin, well-toned figures. If a bride wants a more traditional look from this contemporary shape, the addition of a detachable train can give it the appearance of a ballgown. Though a bride wearing a sheath need not be tall, a petite bride should make sure that the gown is in proportion to her figure. Too low a waistline
 could make the petite bride's legs appear short.

Trumpet

Trumpet Silhouette (right). This silhouette is a lot of fun because it can really show off a curvy figure. It follows the body's curves, then flares out at or above the knee, providing a roomy, airy swish, depending on your fabric choice. If you wish to de-emphasize your hips, this may not be the best style.

Bias

Bias Cut (left). This is another style that works nicely on well-toned figures. This was, in fact, the style that Carolyn Bessette-Kennedy wore. The fabric is cut in such a way that it clings slightly to your curves then flares gently away. If you wish to hide a tummy, it may be best to look at another style.

Empire

Empire Waistline (right). The empire waistline works well when a bride wishes to focus attention higher up. For small-busted females, the empire looks great when the bodice has more texture or trim than the skirt. Petite brides have also enjoyed this waistline because it gives the impression of increased height. Those with a thicker waist have enjoyed it as well because of the way it de-emphasizes that area. In fact, a curved empire line, one that dips down to the small of the back on both sides, can provide more slimming curves through the waist..

Basque

Basque Waistline (left). This waistline rides low on the hips, dipping down to a point in the front. For taller brides, it helps to provide a nice hourglass figure. Petite brides need to be a little cautious: if the waistline rides too low, it could make them appear shorter. Some of the newer styles now have the waistline located higher, which works better for petite
sizes. The higher Basque waistlines also flatter brides trying to hide their hips or brides needing more visual length. One thing to remember about this style: the angle from hip to point in front can vary. Brides who are too slim in the hips may look better in a Basque waist that angles more sharply on the sides.

 Straight Across Waistline (right). These cuts work well on well-toned and hourglass figures. Brides with thicker waistlines may wish to look at another style. Also: where this waistline hits is very important. Make sure it doesn't ride too low, as this can make a bride appear shorter or make it appear as if the bride has larger hips.

Straight

Again, there are exceptions to every rule. Remember: take assessment of your own figure and of the gown you're trying on. Beyond the trim and glimmer is a shape that will help you make you look your best. Happy hunting!

The views expressed in this article are those of the author and not necessarily those of The Maryland Wedding Guide or its advertisers. We thank Connie Walker for sharing this document with all of us.

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